Ray Gillespie's blog
Ray Gillespie's Guide to Surviving Sim Races.
06:37 PM on Jan 31, 2007

If you've been racing for a while and are one of the folks usually in the top ten, then this guide isn't really for you. In fact, I'm not sure if this guide has a purpose here since we seem to have a generally-good group of participants who race with us. Portions of this guide may (of course) touch upon Race 2 Play regulations and rules.

The concept of this guide is to give a bit of a "crib notes" crash course in surviving endurance races and sprints run at R2P (by sprints, I mean the 45 minute series we have; 45 minutes is a sprint compared to the 2 hour endurance races we have in GT-I, GT-O, and rFWC). I'm going to run the gamut of topics as they pop into my head; hopefully the guys who head up the rear of the pack on a consistent basis will take something away from this.

A small disclaimer: I'm not the fastest, but I used to be one of the slowest. I don't claim to be an aficionado of sim-racing; I've only participated in this hobby for approximately 2 year while others (such as Darin or Tim) have been doing this for, like, half a century or something. I have picked up a few good habits, though. That is what I intend to share with the R2P community.

Without further babbling...

SET-UPS
I was going to run through a quick-and-dirty guide of what options do what, but there's a lot of set-up guides out there, and word-of-mouth advice from the experienced drivers on TeamSpeak goes a long way. My advice if you're starting out with this hobby is to ask for setups from different drivers. Try out different styles. I prefer understeer monsters that are so "stable" I need to make them turn with my right foot. Others like "loose" setups that I, personally, find unstable and uncontrollable. Find what style you like, then look at the garage and see how that person set the car's "options" to make it drive that way.

Set-ups don't really make you go fast. Set-ups make the car behave in a way that you can drive fast.

DRIVING
The most important part of surviving a simulation race is consistent, smooth driving. It really doesn't matter what your brake point is; if you properly hit the apex of the corner; if you accelerate smoothly out of the corner onto the following straight. What DOES matter is that you race at the pace you're comfortable with.

When you enter the server, what's the first thing you see? You'll look at the laptimes and invariably see the top 5 or 3 with eye-popping laptimes that you haven't been able to even get close to touching in your preceding practice sessions. Here's your first bit of advice: ignore those alien laptimes. That's right. Ignore them. Just take a mental note of how fast they are so you can prepare yourself as to how fast they'll approach you when you're lapped. If you're consistently finding yourself at the back of the qualifying times, then what you need to concentrate on is technique. While a bad setup can rob you of a second or two (or worse, make you completely unstable) a good setup won't suddenly erase 10 seconds or so from your laps. Technique. Trail-braking, proper apexing, smooth exits. These skills are what make the aliens go so damn fast (plus their preternatural ability to use these skills with superhuman finesse, but that's something else entirely). I'll try to elaborate on what those three terms mean:

Trail-braking. All this refers to is late braking. You're basically braking almost all the way to the apex of a turn, then immediately transferring to a moment of coasting until you're past the apex and into your acceleration. Take the Circuit de Catalunya with its first-turn chicane with a downhill entry. Believe it or not, you can set your brake point at the beginning of the black mark and safely into the chicane complex without locking up your tires and going wide. Here's how I do it:

- I immediately smash my brake pedal all the way down to the stops and hold for about half a second, then as I begin downshifting to let engine braking assist in the process, I let up on the pedal. If you're braking from a very fast speed, you'll achieve awesome stopping potential by mashing the brake, holding for a second, then as you downshift bringing the pedal back to about 90% brake power. Continuing to downshift, I begin to turn in towards my apex of the turn. As I do this and my speed drops even more, I start edging back on the braking until I'm barely feathering the pedal.

- I've hit the apex (the "center" of the turn where safe acceleration can begin without understeering off the track as you exit the turn) of Barcelona's first corner chicane. I'm at the bottom of the hill. Barcelona has a big chicane here; it may not look like a chicane, but is is a chicane. When you're dealing with any turn, entry and exit are the most important parts. Therefore, I'm more concerned with how I exit this chicane into that long, sweeping right-hander. So I'm holding myself back from hammering the gas since I know it'll send me into the sand on the right side of the exit. I wait until I'm in my identified apex of the exit of this chicane, then I accelerate.

Sometimes sacrificing a bit of speed in a turn or a chicane complex with actually result in a higher exit speed. Two things you should worry about when dealing with turns: entering them as quickly as possibly, and exiting with the intention of achieving the fastest possibly speed in the following straight.

This is only one example, of course. Hopefully it gives you a bit of brain food to consider in regards to your brake technique. I've found that my laptimes have improved immeasurably once I abandoned my habit of gentle entry and timid exit. I'm not quite there yet, but I have begun to finish in the top ten on a fairly consistent basis.

PASSING
Another huge part of simulation races? Passing and dealing with traffic.

Remember, sometimes you don't have to make the pass. Take into consideration that when you close with a car and begin "dueling" with it, it's slowing both of you down. There's been a couple times when I've watched the approach speed of a car behind me, deduced that he's way faster than me, and simply let him by, preferring to let a fast car go by and retain my speed rather than battle with him and the field behind me a chance to close the gap and the field ahead the chance to pull away.

If you're coming up on a guy with a rather-inexorably pace where you're chomping and nibbly away at the gap in front of him then realize that you're putting pressure on that guy. Close the gap, run close to him, and simply let the pressure do the work. Trust me, sometimes the driver ahead will do your passing work for you by getting unsettled enough to miss his brake point or enter a turn a bit too hot and swinging wide. Try to rattle him by executing an excellent trail brake and zooming from a second back to right on his ass in the turn. He'll begin to consider that he soon try to brake harder in the next turn. The closer you can get him to the edge of his ability and the more you pressure him into running faster than you to keep his position, the more likely you're going to get an easy pass when he swings wide or spins. Never force the pass. Wait for that mistake. Think two or three corners ahead.

CONSISTENCY
Ask any of the top guys. One of the worst things to come upon is an erratic driver running in the rear.

Run consistently, and run the same line. Lap after lap. Look around the track for familiar landmarks to help you with braking points and acceleration points. For example, on Estoril in the final right hand sweeper there's a bright aquamarine panel on the safety rails. It pretty much marks the spot where you should begin to accelerate. Don't always rely on the brake markers because sometimes there's a better signal on the track or on the wall to give you a better mark for your line.

TEMPERMENT
Trust me on this one: racing while angry is always a losing battle.

Even if someone out on the track executes a completely boneheaded manuever and ruins your race by wrecking you both out... don't get all pissy. After all, its just a game, and you haven't lost any money. Just a bit of your spare time. Take setbacks with a smile. Be a gentleman racer. Don't cut off your opponents. Don't pull dirty tricks like "brake checking". If the accident is your fault, then don't blame the other guy for your mistake (waiting for him to come out of the spin even if it means you lose a shitload of positions also goes a long way towards becoming an accepted member of this community).

Calm, cool, and collected. Having a state of mind like that goes a long way towards finishing a race.

CONCLUSION
Hopefully this guide helps some folks out. If it makes you a safer driver, then my work is done. See you on the track. :)




Posted by Tim McArthur at 07:07 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #1

Very well put Ray

Posted by Chris Chappell at 07:23 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #2

Well done Ray, lots of good info there.

Posted by Bill Johnson at 08:32 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #3

This is great advise. I have never really acquired the correct technique for corner entry and braking. I'll be putting your advise into my practice routine. Keep it coming.

Posted by Torben Bigenix at 10:33 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #4

Thanks for that helper! There is one question in my head, I'd like to ask here. I read some stuff about trail breaking, and that you use your left foot for breaking while doing it, to be able to break and accelerate a bit to stabilize the car at the same time, while approaching the apex. I don't have any problems braking with my left foot. I did it all the time, before getting my G25 and having three pedals all of a sudden. But, how am I supposed to deal with 3 pedals at the same time? Meaning, I have to break real hard, then loosing the break a bit and start downshifting. If I used the left foot to break, I have no foot to press the clutch. If I use the right foot for trail-braking, because of breaking that late and having no possibility to stabilize the car with a little bit of acceleration when beeing near to the apex, I find myself in the position of not hitting the apex and sliding off the track...
Oh man.. way too long sentences, Sorry for that, Im not native speakin and have trouble expressing myself in this situation...
Anyway, I hope someone can tell me a bit more about that, or maybe give me a link to a detailed procedure-desciption, as I really wanna try to learn it...

Posted by Frank Sutton at 10:45 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #5

Great article Ray!

Posted by Chip Wiegand at 11:00 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #6

Great article!

FM - I think you are referring to heel-n-toeing. Using your right foot on both the brake pedal and accellerator at the same, or very close to same, time. Heel on brake, toes on gas, modulating them accordingly. From what I've read about it, it takes much practice to learn how to do properly.

Are you always using the clutch? In every car? Many don't have a clutch, in which case you don't need to use the one you have.

Posted by Michael Kolar at 11:02 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #7

But, how am I supposed to deal with 3 pedals at the same time?

I don't have a handy link for you, but what you're looking for is called "heel and toe downshifting", in which you twist your right foot a bit, brake with the big toe and ball of the foot, and work the throttle with your heel. There are some great videos of the technique in action, maybe a youtube search will pull up something good.

Edit: Chip beat me to the post! I'm no pro at it either, which one of us is right- heel goes on the brake or the throttle?

Posted by Chip Wiegand at 11:23 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #8

Found a good read for heel-n-toe - NASA Pro Racing

Quote from the article - ""Heel toe" is a misnomer. It can be done in many ways, depending on the pedals in the car, and the anatomy of the driver. Although it can be, it is not usually done with the heel and toe. The process is commonly done by placing the ball of the foot on the right side of the brake pedal, and while holding consistent brake pressure, the side of the foot rolls onto the throttle, "blipping" the throttle. Depending on your anatomy, and the pedals, it can be done any way that allows the brakes to be used while the throttle is blipped."

And some more - "Heel Toe is not a required skill at your first event or two, as a matter of fact, you don’t ever have to learn it. It is a tool that will make you a smoother driver (ie. faster!), and you will be easier on your equipment. It’s a tool to add to your arsenal of skills as your high performance driving becomes more polished."

An excellent article anyone interested in Heel-n-toeing should read.

Posted by Enis Dauti at 11:51 PM on Jan 31, 2007
Comment #9

H&T in action. Download "Fancy footwork"

Posted by Tim McArthur at 01:48 AM on Feb 01, 2007
Comment #10

Yea, Heel-toe is what you were referring to. It is not easy to do on sim-pedals as you do not get the feedback you need from the brake pedal. Plus, the pedals do need to have the proper spacing and most PC pedals do not. I had, at one point, spent hours refining my ECCI pedal spacing to match my foot width (which is very thin) and setting up the springs for proper tensions. You need a very stiff brake that delivers greater resistance down the travel a bit. It also needs to match up with the throttle so when you are pressing hard on the brakes that your throttle pedal is even with the brake pedal so you can reach it with the "side" of your foot.

By the way, you dont need the clutch pedal in any sim once you are at speed. Just focus on left-foot braking and 'burping' the throttle with your right foot. If you want to practice for real-world track time... go do it in the car you plan to bring to the track. Just find a lonely back road and keep going between 2nd and 3rd.

I actually learned this procedure over a few weeks time, just before my first HPDE event with NASA. I used my friends Jeep in fact, as the pedal spacing and gearing made it very easy to do. I started slow and built up my confidence of how hard I need to press the throttle with the side of my foot to get the revs up to the right range for the downshift. The more your practice it, the faster you get at it and the smoother those shifts become. When I started driving my Datsun again (at the HPDE event) I was heel-toe'ing very confidently and had been able to practice it enough just driving around town that it became second nature to me. To date, I still heel toe just driving around town. It is good practice for my track days.

One thing I noticed as I looked more and more into heel-toe is that your foot doesn't do the 'work', it is your whole leg that moves. Try moving just your foot in that cock-eye'd way... it's hard. Much easier to 'burp-with-your-knee' by moving it abruptly towards the shifter which moves your entire leg and foot with it. The video posted above shows this procedure very well and you can see he uses his whole leg to make his foot do what needs to be done. I wfelt validated when I saw a Grand-Am driver in a sim here at Sears Point and he was using this same technique to heel-toe (or should I call it "knee-n-toe"?) his way around in GTR2 and rFactor.

The Datsun has "ok" pedal spacing, but I'd like an extra half-inch of brake pedal width to prevent to occaisional time that my foot slips between the two pedals... scary at speed! The BMW pedals at PERFECT and I can heel toe that thing without worry.


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